Pushing through crowds, standing squashed in never-ending queues of human sardines is not conducive to peace or contemplation. Pilgrimages are no longer what they are supposed to be. Fortunately alternatives to popular destinations such as Shirdi exist, for the devout as well as the agnostic.
Fact File: Akkalkot (45 km from the textile town of Sholapur) in Shegaon district of Maharashtra is one such powerful centre, surprisingly little known outside the state. Trains and bus connections are easily available from Mumbai to Akkalkot via Sholapur. From Akkalkot bus trips are available to Gangapur (on the banks of the meeting point of rivers Bhima and Krishna), Kurvapur and Narsoba wadi. Basic, clean and inexpensive accommodation is easily available at the Akkalkot Devasthan‘s Bhaktha Nivas. It is customary to dine at least once in the Devasthan’s Annachattra (free meals arrangement for devotees). If going for the first time, the best way to go about is to hire a local auto driver as a guide as well.
Places to See: Akkalkot’s most famous landmark is the Vatavruksha temple, where one can bask in the shade of the two hundred year old Banyan tree. It is considered holy, as the Swami of Akkalkot (1856-1878), popularly known as ’Shri Swami Samarth’, used to be seated at its base and even passed away beneath it. The Banyan tree is also symbolically significant. When devotees asked his caste and parentage, the Swami is said to have cryptically referred to himself as the, ‘Mula Purush (the origin of the first cause), vatavruksha (banyan tree), Mula.’ Now small marble padukas (foot impressions) have been placed there, protected by a low brick structure, so that one has to bend low to view them. Upon doing so, we could hear a soft primordial chant, the source of which is unknown.
From here we were directed to Balappa Maharaj’s Mutt. Balappa was a jeweller and money-lender till he felt an inner-transformation and became one of the chief disciples of the Swami. The mutt is a roomy, cottage like structure, hung to the brim with rare photographs and sketches of the Swami and some devotees. Of various sizes and styles, the frames were completely engrossing. Here are enshrined the Swami’s atma padukas, rudrakshas, ring and a worn shirt which were gifted to Balappa by the Swami. A meditative peace pervaded the room, inviting us to sit down and immerse ourselves in it.
A short rickshaw ride took us to the Samadhi of the Swami at Cholappa’s Mutt. In a stroke of fortune and timing, one of the family of the priests who serve the temple, whisked us away to his residence close by. It is a fascinating old-style Indian dwelling, extended and patched up haphazardly, complete with a sunken open floor tank, waist high black earthen pots and heavy nineteenth century brass cookware. Here, their family home for generations, the priests showed us a private collection of rare items actually used by the Swami including a royal dress gifted by a Rajah, some hookahs and his staff It was a poignant moment - the belief that shone on the faces of the priests, their love and pride in housing these genuine articles when they clearly did not have enough space for themselves, their warmth and openness to us... We also came away with a sense of sadness that without scientific intervention, this slice of history and heritage may not survive for posterity.
An important place of historical significance is the Akkalkot Fort and Palace belonging to the prominent, royal Bhonsale family (descendents of Shivaji). This has been converted to a museum housing quite an impressive, personal collection of armory and weapons, ranging from small daggers and knives to the early firearms. There is also other interesting collections of car models, animals and such, which is of quite an interest to kids. Owing to the presence of the Swami, Akkalkot also received visits from Rajahs, Sardars and Jahagirdars of neighboring Princely states, such as Sangli, Gwalior, Indore and Baroda. There is a legendary incident pertaining to the classic clash between royals and spiritual stalwarts which is worth mentioning. Maloji Bhosale (1857-1870) was the ruler of the principality and a great devotee of Swami Samarth. Once on the occasion of his birthday the Rajah, visited the Swami in full royal insignia and pageantry. When he bowed before the Swami, the latter who did not like the Rajah’s show, did not even glance at him. After a few moments of embarrassment, the Rajah tried to draw the attention of the Swami by bowing again. The Swami was enraged and at once slapped him. His crown fell to a distance of twenty feet under the impact of the blow!
There is also a popular dargah here where thousands throng to seek blessings and avail predictions of the number of full-moons till marriage. A walk and queries around the town more yielded results. We found underground residences of two monks who had performed penance inside for decades. At one of these, we were allowed to go down the steep, short staircase (one can only sit and shuffle down) leading to a narrow chamber with barred window at ground level for ventilation and food delivery. To willingly undergo such austerity, what must be their state of mind, was the unasked question. We left Akkalkot, feeling much reenergized in spirit and vigor.
Further Reading: The Supreme Master (biography of the Swami of Akkalkot) by Pujya Acharya Ekkirala Bharadwaja (www.saibharadwaja.org)
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